Hamster Care

Hamsters are nocturnal, ground-dwelling rodents that are easily maintained, but have specific requirements to keep them happy and healthy.

Housing

Hamsters are not good jumpers although they do like to climb; therefore, the best type of cage is one that is long, wide, and low. An alternative to this is to place many levels to your hamster cage.  Small rat cages make great homes for hamsters. 

In the wild, hamsters live underground and come out at night to search for food.  By providing a “hide” box, which can be a simple empty, square facial tissue box or a store bought “house”, your hamster will feel secure while he is sleeping during the day. Fill the bottom of the cage with a deep layer (2-5 inches) of absorbent bedding. A recycled newspaper bedding is preferred. Cedar or Pine shavings should be avoided as they can cause respiratory problems and are toxic to your pet. Bedding should be changed weekly and the cage completely cleaned (including the hide box and exercise wheel).

Toys

Hamsters are very busy during their nocturnal roaming, and in captivity, keeping them busy will help prevent destructive or harmful activities like cage chewing. Exercise wheels alone do not provide enough mental or physical stimulation to keep a hamster happy or healthy. Here is a list of simple and inexpensive toys:

  • Empty paper towel or toilet tissue rolls

  • Empty facial tissue boxes

  • Small cardboard boxes

  • Dye and scent free facial tissue or paper towels

  • Pesticide-free twigs from beech, maple, willow or hazelnut bushes

  • Wooden chew sticks or toys from pet stores

  • Clean wax-free paper cups

  • Cotton balls

  • Oatmeal containers

All of the above toys allow your hamster to shred, build, hide and play. Don’t be surprised if a toy you place in the cage one day is totally shredded by the next.

Food

Hamsters have a very high metabolism and should have continuous access to food and water.  Most hamsters will readily drink from a sipper bottle attached to the side of the cage. This bottle should always have clean water in it.

Since hamsters forage for food, placing the food into a dish each day does not allow the hamster to act like it would in the wild. It is more mentally stimulating to scatter the food over the main level bedding, and if your cage has multiple levels, a few pieces along each level encourage a natural foraging behavior. Hamsters also like to create their own “stashes” of food in various parts of the cage. Often these stores will be near favorite sleeping and resting places. 

While many commercial hamster feeds are heavily seed based, a seed based or seed heavy diet contributes to obesity and obesity related diseases in captive hamsters. A high quality pellet feed, such as Oxbow, supplemented with fresh vegetables and hay is a much healthier diet. Fresh foods which can be offered include dandelion greens, chickweed, alfalfa pellets, spinach, lettuce (large green leafed varieties) and in tiny amounts, carrots and fruit. Avoid raw beans, apple seeds, sprouting potato buds, parsley, and green parts of tomatoes. Uneaten fresh food should be removed daily.

Handling

Hamsters are nocturnal animals and become very cranky if woken up during the day. They may bite, shriek, scratch, and try to escape from your hands. It is best to do any cleaning or feeding in the late evening. Hamsters also sleep very deeply during the day, so don’t be surprised if you don’t see any movement or only very slight movement from your hamster’s hide box while the sun is up. 

Time for the Veterinarian!

A veterinarian should evaluate any injuries to your hamster. Swollen eyes, cuts or abrasions, sudden fur loss or refusal to eat (during normal hamster eating hours) are other reasons to take your hamster to the veterinarian.