Green Iguana Care

The Green iguana is the most common of the more than 30 species of iguana seen as companion pets. Native to the tropical regions of Central to South American and the Caribbean, the Green iguana can grow to around 6 feet in length from nose to tip of tail. In captivity the Green Iguana can live around 20 years. Iguanas can be difficult to care due to having very specific humidity, lighting and nutrition requirements.

Diet

  • Beet Greens

  • Bok Choy

  • Chard

  • Cilantro

  • Collard Greens

  • Dandelion (greens & flowers)

  • Endive

  • Escarole

  • Grape Leaves

  • Hibiscus (flowers & leaves)

  • Kale

  • Mulberry Leaves

  • Mustard Greens

  • Parsley

  • Rose Petals

  • Snow Peas

  • Spinach

  • Turnip Greens

A diet consisting of combinations of these foods is nutritionally complete. Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful. Water should be available at all times. One fruit-flavored Tums® should be crushed up and sprinkled over greens at least once a week.

Humidity

As a native species of South and Central American forests, green iguanas require a constant humidity between 80%-95%, as well as fresh standing water. Misting systems and bowls of clean water can be used to provide this ambient humidity. Humidity sensors should be placed in a couple of places in the enclosure.

Living plants in the enclosure serve to not only maintain ambient humidity, but also provide cover for young iguanas and climbing surfaces. Due to the need for a high humidity environment, enclosures need to be cleaned daily and all fecal matter removed promptly. Cage substrate will also need to be changed daily.

Avoid using cat litter, sand, and all resinous wood (pine, fir, cedar, redwood, eucalyptus) shavings. Resinous woods are toxic to reptiles and small particled substrate such as cat litters or sand can lead to intestinal blockages. Avoid grass pellets as they mildew and grow mold and fungus quickly when subjected to moisture.

We recommend using newspapers, Orchid bark or forest mulch as cage substrates.

Housing

Water dragons require relatively high ambient humidity levels. Recommended cage substrates include orchid bark or bedding bricks made of coconut fiber which absorb and expand when exposed to water. The majority of intestinal impactions occur due to sand (including Calci-Sand), crushed walnut shell, or other substrates composed of small, equal-sized particles and therefore these are not recommended. Indoor-outdoor carpeting is also not recommended due to the possibility of carpet threads constricting toes or being ingested.

If possible, provide growing plants in the enclosure to retain proper humidity levels as well as provide climbing, basking and hiding spots. Be sure to use plants that are non-toxic and thrive in high humidity environments.

Lighting

Fluorescent lamp (UV source): Appropriate lamps are Repti-sun 5.0 (ZooMed), ReptiGlo 5.0 or 8.0 (Exoterra), or ReptaSun 5.0 (Fluker). The lamp should be within 18 inches of the iguana's body, with no glass or plastic between the iguana and light. Leave light on 8 to 12 hours per day.

Incandescent lamp (for basking): Light bulb wattage should be adequate to provide a basking temperature of 85-95 degrees F (27 to 35 C). This temperature should be measured with a thermometer placed directly at the basking site.

A mercury vapor lamp, such as Power Sun by ZooMed or Mega Ray at www.reptileUV.com provides both heat and UVB.

Temperature

Daytime ambient temperature (everywhere in the enclosure) should be maintained at 80-90 degrees F. Night time ambient temperature should be maintained at 75 to 82 degrees F.

Medical Care

Unfortunately the most common reasons iguana owners seek veterinary care for their pets is due to inappropriate or unbalanced diets or improper husbandry.

Metabolic bone disease is one of the most common results of poor or unbalanced diets. Feeding foods either low in calcium, high in phosphorus or high in oxalic acid causes calcium to be leached from the iguana's bones in order to maintain organ function. Broken and/or swollen limbs, misshaped toes, jaw, tail and head are all seen with Metabolic Bone disease.

Weakness, reluctance to move or eat, staggering, or any other abnormalities require an examination by a veterinarian. Constipation or obstipation (blockage) from ingesting cage litter such as sand, cat litter, wood chips or corn cobs is another common issue.

Owners should never try to correct any suspected defecation issues on their own as serious complications and side effects can occur resulting in an emergency visit with an unlikely outcome. Diarrhea from a diet too high in fruit or intestinal parasite infection can lead to dehydration or prolapse. Abscesses and burns are common causes of veterinary visits. Any bulges, "soft spots" oozing or open sores should be treated under the supervision of a veterinarian.

Frequently check heat lamps, wiring, under-cage heat sources for exposed wires or excess temperature. Seek veterinary care if you suspect your iguana has been burned before the skin becomes infected. Deep burns may need extensive and prolonged care. Some skin disorders can be from a green iguana kept in too dry of an environment. Compression on toes or tail from skin not fully shed can be in indication that the humidity level is too low.

If you suspect your Green Iguana is ill, please call our office right away.