Desert Tortoise Information

Habitat

Yard with secure fencing (preferably block wall)
Tortoises are escape artists and can dig under most chain link or wire fences. They may go under or through wooden fences. Believe it or not, they can also climb chain link.

Shady, cool places to rest and sleep
Like other animals, tortoises cannot stay in direct sunlight in hot weather for too long without getting heat stroke. During the heat of the day, tortoises like to hide in shelters or under bushes in the shade. Many tortoises will dig burrows.

Access to shallow water source
Tortoises get the majority of the water they need from the plants they eat, but you should provide a shallow water dish for supplemental water. Many tortoises enjoy climbing into the bowl and soaking. Make sure the bowl is in a shady, accessible area and that the tortoise can enter and exit it easily.

Tortoises also like to drink from puddles on the ground made by running the hose or sprinkler as this simulates rainfall.

Diet

A native plant diet occasionally supplemented with healthy greens, grass, and grass hay is nutritionally complete. Using commercial tortoise pellets, high protein foods, lettuces (even romaine), and fruit can cause growth issues in young tortoises, metabolic disease and other medical problems. It is best to feed a native plant based diet with only occasional supplementation of foods listed below.

A diet composed of an assortment of the plants listed provides a nutritionally complete diet. Adding vitamin, calcium, or other mineral supplements is not necessary and may be harmful. All tortoises should be kept outside (as temperatures permit) to ensure adequate exposure to ultraviolet light, which is necessary to maintain calcium metabolism.

Produce is generally less nutritious than the other foods listed here and should only be fed when other foods are not available or as an occasional supplement.

It can be tempting to give tortoises “treats” such as bananas or other fruit, but too much of these foods are not good for them. Be sure the tortoise has a good basic diet and give only prickly pear fruit or strawberries as an occasional treat.

Favored Native Plants (Entire plant consumed unless otherwise noted)

  • Arizona Cottontop Grass

  • Bamboo Muhly Grass

  • Blue Grama Grass

  • Buckwheats

  • Cassia

  • Curly Mesquite Grass

  • Deer Grass

  • Desert Four O'Clock

  • Desert Honeysuckle

  • Desert Senna

  • Desert Willow (flowers)

  • Evening Primrose*

  • Fern Acacia (flowers)

  • Globe Mallows*

  • Hibiscus (flowers & leaves)

  • Hoary Abutilon

  • Morning Glory

  • Plantain*

  • Prickly Pear (fruit & new pads)

  • Spurges*

  • Trailing Four O'Clock

  • Vice Mesquite Grass

*= good for young tortoises/hatchlings

Acceptable Produce:

  • Barley

  • Bean Sprouts (mung)

  • Beet Greens

  • Bok Choy

  • Carrot Greens

  • Cilantro

  • Collard Greens

  • Endive

  • Kale

  • Mustard Greens

  • Parsley

  • Snow Peas

  • Spinach

  • String Beans

  • Turnip Greens

Other Healthy Foods:

  • Bluegrass Lawn

  • Cantaloupe Leaves

  • Clover *

  • Dandelion Greens

  • Grape (leaves & shoots)

  • Mix of Alfalfa & Grass (Bermuda or Timothy)

  • Mulberry Leaves *

  • Pumpkin Leaves *

  • Rose Petals *

  • Watercress

  • Zucchini/Squash leaves

* = good for young tortoises/hatchlings

Avoid the Following:

Desert Tortoises should never be given protein rich foods (such as dog or cat food) or animal proteins (meats or dairy products).

  • All Fruit

  • All Types of Lettuce (including Romaine)

  • Avocado

  • Caggage

  • Canned/Frozen Vegetables

  • Celery

  • Chinaberry Berries

  • Cucumber

  • Mushrooms

  • Plants in the Nicotiana Genus

  • Starchy Vegetables (like corn)

Protection Against Potential Hazards

No contact with dogs
Dogs, even gentle, well trained ones, often view tortoises and turtles as chew toys rather than living creatures and can kill or badly injure them by chewing. Dog caused injuries are one of the most common reasons we see tortoises especially during spring and the monsoon season.

No exposure to pesticides, household cleaners or other poisons
Tortoises and most other reptiles are very sensitive to pesticides and other poisons and should not come into contact with these substances.

No access to swimming pool or other deep water
Tortoises cannot swim and will quickly drown in deep water.

Protection against flipping
If you find your tortoise turned over on his back, turn him back over immediately, and take him to a cool area. Tortoises who turn over usually can right themselves, but if they are unable to do so, you must do it for them-quickly. If a tortoise remains on his back, particularly if he is in full sun, serious health problems, or death can result very rapidly.

If your tortoise tends to flip when trying to climb over an obstacle (e.g., a pile of rocks or dirt) remove the obstacle or make it inaccessible to the tortoise.

Hibernation

Secure winter hibernation shelter
Tortoises hibernate from approximately mid-October through approximately mid-May. You may build an outdoor hibernation burrow following the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum’s guidelines as long as the burrow is protected from freezing, flooding, and chronic dampness. Contact the Museum or their website (http://www.desertmuseum.org/programs/tap.php) for instructions.

You may also hibernate the tortoise in a box in a garage or similar area that is not heated but is protected from freezing, flooding, and dampness. Put shredded newspaper in the box.

Soaking
Tortoises do not usually drink water while hibernating, but if hibernated indoors they should be soaked in shallow, lukewarm water for 20-30 minutes once a month during the hibernation period to maintain hydration. Do not offer food during hibernation.

Medical Care

Tortoises do not require vaccinations, nor do they need to be spayed or neutered. It is advisable to have your tortoise checked by a veterinarian once a year before hibernation. If a tortoise is ill and goes into hibernation, the disease will progress as the tortoise’s metabolic rate falls and could cause serious problems or death. Of course, if your tortoise is ill at any time you should seek medical care. In the event of medical problems and for pre-hibernation check-ups contact Orange Grove Animal Hospital at (520)877-2626.

Sexing Tortoises

The easiest way to determine the sex of an adult tortoise is by looking at it plastron (the bottom of the shell). A females’ plastron is completely flat, while a male’s plastron has a noticeable concave area (indent) across the width of the shell about 1/3 of the way up from his tail. You can also look at the gular horn, which is the piece of the shell that extends from the plastron under the tortoise’s head. The gular horn is usually longer in males and may be upturned. However, unless you have a male and female tortoise and can compare gular horns, this method may not be reliable. Male tortoises have slight longer tails than females do and more pronounced, well-developed chin glands. If you have a juvenile tortoise, keep in mind that you may not be able to accurately determine its sex until it is 10-15 years old depending on its growth rate.

Escapes

Desert tortoises are escape artists! Even if you provide them with the perfect habitat and diet, they will likely escape if they have the opportunity. Males are more likely to escape than females and though escapes can occur during any time of the year that tortoises are active, spring and fall are the peak periods. If your tortoise attempts to escape it does not mean he is unhappy, he is just following his instincts.

Preventing Tortoise Escapes

Preventing escapes is much easier than dealing with them after the fact. Ensure that your habitat has the following:

  • Secure Fencing

    • Block wall is the best. Other types of fencing should be set well into the ground, preferably in a layer of cement, so the tortoise cannot dig under it. As mentioned before, tortoises can climb chain link.

  • Secure Gates

    • Make sure gates latch securely and there is not a large gap between the bottom of the gate and the ground. Tortoises may attempt to dig under gates.

One of the most common tortoise escape scenarios involves a gate that is accidentally left open. To prevent your tortoise from escaping this way construct a gate barricade. This can be as simple as a sturdy board held in place across the gate opening with cinder blocks. If you are the handy type, you can probably come up with something more pleasing to the eye. Whatever materials you use, be sure that:

  • The tortoise cannot dig under it, push it over, or climb over it (don’t use chain link or chicken wire)

  • The barricade is tall enough that the tortoise can’t climb over it, but short enough for you to step over it without too much difficulty

  • The barricade is on the opposite side that the gate swings open

Identifying Your Tortoise

It’s a good idea to identify your tortoise even if you are certain your yard is escape proof. The easiest way to identify a tortoise is to use a permanent marker to write your phone number on the side of the tortoise’s shell. Check the phone number a couple of times per year and touch it up if it is faded. Do not mark the tortoise’s shell with paint, fingernail polish, or similar substances.

If your tortoise does escape, take the following steps as soon as possible:

  • Conduct a search of the area as soon as you notice him missing. Repeat the search on a daily basis.

  • Alert your neighbors. One of them may have picked him up. If not, ask them to be on the lookout.

  • Post “lost tortoise” flyers in the neighborhood. If possible, include a picture of the tortoise. Give the date the tortoise went missing, the location and any identifying marks, such as chips in the shell. Remember to include your contact information.

  • Read the “Found animals” adds in the newspaper on a daily basis.

  • Contact the Humane Society.

  • Contact veterinarians in your area as well as Orange Grove Animal Hospital as we receive many “found” tortoises during the warmer months.

  • Contact the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.

Q & A

Q: How old is my tortoise and how long with he live?
A: Once a tortoise reaches adult size, it is not possible to accurately determine its age. Desert tortoises can live to be 100 years old or more.

Q: Is my tortoise going to be lonely by himself?
A: No. Tortoises are solitary creatures in the wild and generally only come together during the mating season. Some tortoises don’t seem to mind being around other tortoises, but many other are territorial and can be extremely aggressive to additional tortoises.

Male tortoises should not be kept with other males, as it is not uncommon for males to fight to the death. A male tortoise kept with a female may relentlessly pursue her, attempting to mate, thus causing her a good deal of stress. If you have both a male and a female, be sure they are housed in separate enclosures with no access to each other.

Q: I understand that the wild Desert Tortoise population is diminishing. I want to breed my tortoise and release the babies into the wild to help replenish the population. Is that a good idea?
A: It is not a good idea and is not allowed under state law. The wild Desert Tortoise population is diminishing primarily due to habitat loss, rather than hunting, inability to reproduce or similar problems. Releasing more tortoises into decreasing suitable habitats does more harm than good.

Captive-bred tortoises may carry illnesses to which the wild population has no resistance. A captive-bred tortoise’s chance of survival in the wild is not very good. It is also illegal to release captive-bred tortoises into the wild.

Q: If my tortoise has babies, can I give the babies away?
A: Yes. Just be sure to find them homes with people who will take good care of them or contact the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum.

Q: How will I know if my tortoise is ill?
A: Watch for any of the following signs:

  • Inactivity during warm months

  • Lack of appetite during warm months

  • Excessive wheezing when breathing (many tortoises make some wheezing and whistling noises when moving about, but an increase in these noises can be a symptom of illness)

  • Open mouth breathing

  • Fluid coming from the nose

  • Swollen eyes

  • Difficulty walking

  • Loss of coordination

  • Dragging shell on the ground

  • Change in appearance, areas of swelling or weight loss

Upper respiratory illnesses are especially common in tortoises. If you are not sure what’s going on it’s worth a call to the veterinarian. Note: Sick tortoises should not be hibernated!

Q: I have cats. Are they going to bother my tortoise?
A: Cats and adult tortoises are generally a good combination. A cat may be curious about a tortoise at first, but will soon become bored and ignore it. Cats should not be allowed access to baby tortoises, as they may try to play with them and injure them in the process, but they are usually no threat to adults.

Tortoises and the Law

The Desert Tortoise is a protected species. Here are some laws you should be aware of:

  • It is illegal to sell desert Tortoises

  • It is illegal to take desert Tortoises out of the state

  • It is illegal to remove desert Tortoises from the wild

  • Desert tortoises who have been in captivity for 48 hours or more may not be released into the wild

  • Wild tortoises (if they are releasable) must be released into the same area where they were originally found

  • A family is allowed to have up to one desert tortoise per household, and no more than that

For more information about laws concerning the Desert tortoise, call the Arizona Game and Fish Department at www.azgfd.gov/w_c/desert_tortoise.shtml or you can call the Tucson Office at (520) 628-5376.