Box turtles, (genus Terrapene) or box tortoises, are a native North American turtle species divided into several special and subspecies. The two native to Arizona are the Ornate or Western Box turtle (terrapene ornata ornata) and the subspecies Desert Box Turtle (terrapene ornate luteola). Other species are found through out the country.

Box turtles are terrestrial (lives on land) but do require daily access to fresh water. Box turtles are distinguished by the hinge in the plastron (lower shell) that allows them to close tightly to protect themselves from predators. Box turtles grow to about 5-6 inches with a domed carapace (top shell). Males are most easily distinguished by their deep red eyes, although this color change doesn't happen until sexual maturity, around 7-8 years of age.

Box turtles are amongst the long-living turtle species on average living between 50 and 100 years. Like Desert Tortoises, Box Turtles are often passed from generation to generation within a family. Described as pugnacious by many, Box turtles will defend themselves with their strong beaks, while more timid individuals will tightly seal themselves in the shell.

As with all reptile species, children should not handle box turtles to prevent Salmonella infections and to prevent bites. Small fingers and toes resemble a favorite food of box turtles.Diet

Diet

Box turtles are primarily carnivorous scavengers who seasonally browse on fruits and berries.

Animal Items*

• Beetles

• Canned Dog Food (preferably a low-fat type)

• Crickets & Mealworms (require gut-loading 2 days prior to feeding)

• Earthworms

• Grasshoppers

• Grubs

• Isopods (pill bugs)

• Moths

• Pinky Mice

• Raw Fish Chunks

• Slugs

• Snails

• Waxworms

*Never offer scorpions or lightning bugs.

Plant Items

• Blueberries

• Prickly Pear Fruit

• Raspberries

• Strawberries

• Tomatoes

A diet consisting of a mixture of primarily animal items with occasional supplementation of plant items is nutritionally complete. Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful.

Housing, Temperature and Lighting

In order to meet their UV light requirements and maintain normal light cycles, box turtles are best housed outdoors. Box Turtles are good diggers and will create burrows in your yard. As with desert tortoises, care is needed to prevent escape.

During the summer months additional humidity should be provided. This can be accomplished by planting shrubs that are frequently watered in the turtle's habitat. It is important to also provide an insulated shelter for protection from excessive heat or cold. Smaller versions of the desert tortoise dens can be provided. A puddle of fresh standing water shallow enough for the box turtle to walk across should be constantly available in the environment.

A planter base or metal trash can lid can be partially buried in the enclosure. If you need to house your box turtle indoors, a UV light will need to be provided. A mercury vapor lamp is a good source of additional heat and UVB. Mega Ray at www.reptileUV.com or Power Sun by ZooMed is recommended. Box Turtles do need to hibernate in the winter months.

Hibernation: Indoors vs Outdoors

Similar to Desert Tortoises, they begin to slow down about mid-September. At this time, your box turtle should be examined by a veterinarian to ensure he is healthy enough for hibernation. If your turtle shows any symptoms of illness (eye or nasal discharge for example), he should not be hibernated. If you hibernate your box turtle outside, placing moistened (but not wet) peat moss, straw or leaf litter into the den will encourage your turtle to burrow and prevent dehydration.

Monitoring the den every 2-3 weeks to ensure your turtle is staying hydrated is also important. If you hibernate your box turtle outside, placing moistened (but not wet) peat moss, straw or leaf litter into the den will encourage your turtle to burrow and prevent dehydration.

Monitoring the den every 2-3 weeks to ensure your turtle is staying hydrated is also important. If you need to hibernate indoors, fill a plastic container filled about 2/3rd of the way with straw or moistened leaf litter and place it in a cool room such as a garage. Check on your turtle every 2-3 weeks and soak for 20-30 minutes in tepid water.

Gut-Loading

Gut-loading is the practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other nutrients prior to offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians. Domestic crickets and meal worms should be fed a commercial, grain-based calcium enriched cricket diet such as those made by Flukers or ZooMed, or a diet consisting of four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one part calcium carbonate for two or three days before offering the crickets to your pet. Also, offer the crickets water in a shallow dish or wet sponge.

Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not beneficial, and can actually decrease the life expectancy of the insects.